EDITORIAL

Merhaba . . . .     A very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all our readers wherever you are.  Those of us here in Kemer will of course be having a subdued Christmas and will only be able to have one party over the season. The fact that it lasts from 1^st December to 2^nd January is neither here nor there.  On a slightly more serious note this is the time of year when those of us overseas think of distant friends and relatives and can be a time of “sadness” as well as happiness. Hopefully there are enough friends here for us to minimise the sadness of missed family.  We should also think at this time of the staff here in the marina and the hard work they will be putting in to help us celebrate our holiday. From all of us ‘Liveaboards’ we offer our sincerest thanks.

An so….On with the party!!!

Ron & Julie

‘Gladlee of Guernsey’

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All over the world the holiday of Thanksgiving was celebrated on the 28^th November by American communities and of course their friends. Here in Kemer was no exception and a wonderful party was held in the Navigator. Chief among those playing a leading role were Esme (decorations), Tari (thanksgiving prayer), Nancy (poem) and Frank (MC). I am sure there were others involved in the organisation so I apologise to those not listed.

A special thanks to the Navigator staff, one and all who helped to make this such a pleasant and memorable occasion.

Saklikent Gorge

Rough Guide said this was worth a trip, but being very wary of trip touts and routing via carpet factories, Dudley & I preferred to take the dolmus direct to the Gorge, one-way price of 2.5 mil.  We were, however, touted into taking a return tour taking in a hot spring, stalactite cave, Tlos, lunch stop and the Gorge itself, leaving at 10 and returning around 6, priced at 5 mil, pick up at hotel or the dolmus stop on the corner behind the main mosque in Fethiye.

The first stop, however, was at a service station just 10 mins. down the road, coke drink stop, whether you liked it or not, and as it was free, who wouldn't?  On to the spring and cave, and whilst it was interesting, it wasn't unusual, although the trip down to the hot sulphur spring at the heart of a health spa, was.  The access was through changing rooms and down  slippy very home made sets of steps to a narrow crevice where those without heart complaints or claustrophobia could slither under the smelly hot water.  Quite an experience and I might have been tempted if I hadn't worn a posh frock and wide brimmed hat.

Tlos was spectacular:  ancient Lycian city spectacularly set on the pinnacle of a hill, overbuilt by a Turkish fortress with rock tombs cut around the base. More imposing from a distance, but up from the bus park is the amphitheatre, ruined by earthquakes but delightfully set and of modest scale with impressive carving littered around the stage area.  In between there are the ruins of the baths overlooking the valley and the basilica, both overgrown and accessible via a rocky track between houses, and the market place sited along the road.  All very atmospheric and totally undeveloped and unexposed. 

The lunch stop was at a trout farm which offered a fabulous selection of unusual salad mixes and grilled trout, set in a marvellous water garden comparable to the Brit. Victorian water gardens in its ingenuity, with platforms requiring varying levels of mountaineering skills, all for 5mil:  great treat.

you had to wade through to get to the gorge and the river: the air temp was about 100 deg. and the water 10 deg.

On my first trip in July we were lucky enough to have a young 'assistant' in the dolmus who acted as guide and mother hen, keeping us together helping us across the rapids and up the gorge, where you met rocks you had to climb up and over, always with helping hands and manly arms to push and grab, a waterfall from 50 ft. or so above, deep and shallow beds, banks of grey sand and wonderful sculptured rocks.  The experience was awe inspiring with towering cliffs either side and the shrubbery embedded half way up.  We hit the end when we couldn't climb through a rock fall, some 2 kms. along the gorge.

 The walk back was far more difficult, having to climb down the rocks, sliding on the water cascading through them, grabbed by arms at the bottom and guided by arms at the top.  We arrived back at the rapids virtually unscathed and intact, until our final steps found us tripping over the rocks and the posh frock became a wet rag:  the hat survived.

On my second trip in late September, however, rains had altered the bottom and increased the amount of water running, making the trip more difficult, and without our guide.  It was cooler and the cold water not so welcomingly numbing.  We had to turn back earlier when a pool became neck deep.

A fabulous trip, superb crew, an amazing price and wonderful experience.

If you plan to go, wear wet shoes, swimming costume and wrap the camera carefully: carry very little and be prepared to get wet.

Diving Baptism

The Atlantis Dive School offered instruction and dives, at all levels, and at a much reduced cost, to Kemer livaboards. Eight divers chose to follow a course leading to a qualification and several others came along to experience diving around Kemer. Two dives were planned for each day with a break for lunch provided by the Atlantis crew. Dives took place at various locations and included a wreck and a cave dive. Reef dives at various depths observing the colourful fish allowed all divers to gain experience. The final dive of the course took place at night around the reef just north of the Marina. Night dives are a whole new experience. Professional dive instruction is a great way to enhance all the other skills that make up a livaboards life.

At the completion of the courses a Divers Baptism took place in the Navigator. Poseidon and Ali (Dive master) presided. All those gaining a qualification wore mask, snorkel and fins. After promising Poseidon that they would look after his seas, copious quantities of strong liquor were administered down the snorkels to baptize the participants.

Dive Atlantis operates throughout most of the winter. Anyone wishing to dive or gain a qualification should contact Nic on Independence (Ext 251) or Ali from Dive Atlantis (Mobile 532 454 4318) All equipment is provided if you don’t have your own.

Chris s/y ‘Aventura’

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A jump-lead walks into a bar.

Sea Fare

Bob’s Occasionally Perfect Apple Crumble

Blend the butter into the flour until the butter is in small crumbs coated with flour; it will still feel buttery.  This can be done by hand or with a pastry cutter or with a few pulses in a Cuisinart.  Then add the sugar and again work by hand or machine until the mixture feels ‘short’, which seems to mean dry-ish and no longer buttery.

Peel and slice apples and layer evenly in baking dish about 9x12 inches.  Mix sugar and spices and sprinkle evenly over the apples.  Spread the crumble over the top.  Bake at 200 ºC for 30-40 minutes until crumble is lightly browned.  Test firmness of apples for toothsomeness with a toothpick.

Bob ‘Meg’

Sunday Outings

About 70 (yes seventy) people decided to go on this very popular outing gratefully arranged by Bob & Jean, ‘Patient Lady’. After the initial climb to the lower flames I thought that there might be a few more takers for the bus to the restaurant, but no, the intrepid yachties decided almost the the person to do the hike over the top. Admittedly there were a few who wished that they had by the time they reached to actual top of the hill. Anyway, a lovely walk through the pine trees, across the stream and on to the Yesilvadi Restaurant for a lovely lunch at a very reasonable price. Another great day out.

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to us and everyone spread out through the site for their picnic lunches – except Cara who hadn’t realised she had to take one so scrounged off Sam and Jack. A short visit to Koc Tas and Migros finished off the day for us with some spending more than planned on new (and useful??) tools.

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      Finnish Independence Day

Thank you to ‘Forgus’ and the rest of our Finnish contingent for providing refreshments and a ‘potted’ history of Finland which for most of us was completely new knowledge. Does this now mean a celebration of all ‘Independence Days’ for all the nationalities in the marina??

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The Twelve Days of Christmas

CAPTION COMPETITION

Why did they have to put the toilets up here?

Can you do better?

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Quiz Night

Our thanks to Ted and Trish for organising the first of our quiz nights. Some pretty difficult questions were posed for us as was at least one that could be answered by one of the children (Libyan flag). With two teams tied for first place the decision finally went on the toss of a coin. The winning team (The Magnificent 7!) will now be responsible for hosting the next quiz night.

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Lost and Found

Item 1. Hasan’s hand held VHF radio, ‘lost’ on Thanksgiving night in the Navigator.

Item 2. Julie’s umbrellas ‘lost’ on the Quiz night from the Navigator. (Brown check)

Hopefully someone has mistakenly taken these items and could return them or just leave them at the Navigator or the office.

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