Gladlee of Guernsey
2nd June 2003.
Having arrived back from Sarajevo and done all our shopping we departed
Dubrovnik Marina at 11.00. By 12.00
we had the sails out and the engine off. By 1245 we had the engine back on and
were motor sailing. Passed “Aquabelle” on passage who we know from last year
in the Black Sea – Dutch Naiad 34. Arrived
in the Slano Bay at 1515 and dropped anchor in 5.0 mtrs in the very narrow inlet
just East of Rt. Gornji. Two stern lines ashore saw us safely tucked in for a
couple of days.
After three very pleasant days at anchor we moved on departing at
08.25. Dropped anchor in 5.5 metres in Luka Prozura on the island of Mljet at
11.10. This is a very quiet
peaceful anchorage with a small village.
Left Prozura at 08.45 for the relatively short trip up to Luka Polace
still on the island of Mljet. Anchored
in 11 mtrs at 11.55. Polace is the
main anchorage for the National Park of Mljet and we found ourselves amongst
about 30 boats.
7th June. Decided to move over to one of the restaurant moorings so upped anchor at 0835 and moved to the “Ogigija” restaurant. Took the day out and went to see the inland lake and the monastery in the national park. Decided to walk to the lake instead of taking the bus which would have been included in the price. Arrived at the lake and took the boat out to the monastery, again the price included in the ticket.
Walked back down to the bay after a really enjoyable day out. Ate out at the Ogigija restaurant, as the mooring was free.
8th June. Left Luka Polace at 09.45 and headed for the island of Korcula. Arrived at Uvala Luka at 13.25 and anchored at the far end of the bay in 5 mtrs. Had a slight run in with one of the local water taxi boats who claimed we had anchored over his mooring anchors (3 of them spread out about 150 mtrs) – we hadn’t. Spent the afternoon looking round Korcula town, supposed to be a ‘mini’ Dubrovnik but not too impressed. Did all our shopping at the local supermarket. Very hot.
Left Uvala Luka at 12.25 to move up the coast a little to check out
an anchorage called ‘Uvala Kneza’ which turned out to be just fine. Anchored
in 4.5 mtrs in lovely clear water with about four other boats.
11th June. After two very peaceful days in Kneza moved out at 0715 to head off down inside the peninsula towards Mali Ston. At 13.05 moored alongside the breakwater in the harbour of Drače where we were the only yacht in the harbour – quiet places are available!!. Had a couple of beers ashore but not much to see.
12th June. Moved out of Drače harbour at 10.35 and arrived off Mali Ston at 13.20 where we anchored in 3.5 metres just off the detached breakwater. The passage had been easier than we thought it might due to all the shellfish farms but they proved to be no difficulty at all. Ate out on our first night with Julie having the local delicacy of Oysters to start (including the still live shrimp or worm or something slithering about the plate). A very good quality restaurant for such a small village and in fact people drive up to here from Dubrovnik to eat. Not too expensive.
On the second day here we walked through to Ston to do some shopping and have a look round. The distance is only about ¾ mile by road but about 60 miles by sea. An interesting walk due to the walls which stretch between the two towns up above the hillside.
Again we were the only yacht at anchor here proving that
you can get some peace and quiet in Croatia.
14th June. Departed Mali Ston at 10.00 and headed back up the ‘Kanal’ for Gradače. Initially anchored off in 7.5 metres just off the beach but then moved alongside the breakwater when a small powerboat departed. Gradače is a seaside resort town but more for ‘locals’. Yet again we were the only yacht here. The only real occurrence was some drunk late at night who decided he wanted to sleep in the dinghy – still on our deck but left us with no problem once he realised there was actually someone on board.
Left Gradače at 0945 to check out an anchorage on the island of
Brače. Arrived at Rasotica at
1310 and anchored in a narrow dog-leg bay with two lines astern. A lovely little
bay with a few locals coming down to swim from the very small hamlet and lots of
fun watching the other boats coming in and anchoring then getting their stern
lines sorted; especially the power boat who gave us about 2 hours of fun.
17th June. Left Rasotica at 0710 and arrived in ACI Marina Split at 1150. Moored next to “Annya” who we had seen in Rasotica and were invited over for drinks in the evening. Stayed till about 11.00pm. Second day had a few jobs to do on the boat so went looking for oil to do the oil change. The chandleries were a rip off so went to the local garage where oil was about one third the price. Did the oil and filter changes, no problems. Had an evening wonder around the old town of Split just to check things out and had a meal ashore in the Sarajevo Restaurant. Next day had a more leisurely stroll around Split old town, found the Internet Café, visited the market etc etc.
Despite our expectations we thoroughly enjoyed Split which
we felt had a pretty good ‘buzz’ about it.
20th June. Departed Split at 1020 and headed down to Ŝolta. Arrived at Maslinica at 1310 and went stern to the town quay on a laid mooring. Conditions not too good as a westerly wind/swell was coming straight into the harbour. During the afternoon another charter boat came in with half the main out and had real problems berthing. We assumed that the sail was stuck and panic seemed to be the order of the day. They hit the quay bows on and took a chip out of the hull. Eventually once settled the lady on board just pulled the sail down proving our assumption to be totally wrong!!
A nice enough place but further soured by the price on the harbour wall – 120Kn!!.
Decided to move round to the next bay – Uvala Ŝeŝula.
Anchored in 5 mts towards the head of the bay with lines ashore. Very pleasant
and good swimming area. Lots of local boats out over the weekend and all very
23rd June. Left Uvala Ŝeŝula at 0715 heading for Stari Grad on the
island of Hvar for the annual Croatian “Gathering”. Arrived at 1145 and
moored stern too with a laid mooring alongside "Star of the West".
23rd to 29th June. In Stari Grad for the Gathering. In all about 25 boats arrived over the first couple of days including "Riduna", "Vision", "Star of the West", "Gladlee" and "Bingo"; all Kemer boats or about to be. All the organisation was done by Denis and Mary from "Teka III" ably assisted by a few other volunteers..
Lots of activities planned including Pot Luck, Island Tour, Winery visit, Dinner, book swaps, information exchange etc etc. All in all a very pleasant week especially meeting up with "Vision" and "Riduna" again. Had dinner out a couple of times with "Vision" and "Bingo" in the restaurant on the north side of the harbour. Also met up again with "Horizon" (Kelly and Hank) whom we had met in Luka Polace.
Well worth spending the week here especially as we got
reduced rates on the town quay (80 Kn a night) including water and electric.
Having said our farewells left Stari Grad at 0705 heading for the
mainland to the north. Arrived at Rogaznica (Rogers Knickers) at 1410 and
anchored at the top end of the bay (Uvala Stupin) in 6 metres.
List of boats at the gathering, were:-