Gladlee of Guernsey
Tuesday 1st July. Moved off after
the net at about 09.00. A nice
morning with a little breeze coming from the south so we put the genoa out and
wended our way between some islands and reefs and through the channel south of
Zlaren to the entrance to the Sibenik channel called Kanal Sveta Ante.
We furled in the genoa and
motored through to the inner lake opposite Sibenik and continued up towards the
bridge and through the next narrow channel to the brackish Prukljansko jezero.
Instead of going straight up to Skradin we veered left up to Rasline and
dropped anchor in the basin just after the
small harbour in about 5.8m. A
beautiful quiet spot, a little away from the village with trees along the
opposite bank and birds singing away. We
could see the constant stream of traffic going to and fro from Skradin-Sibenik.
We ventured ashore later for an explore but not too much to see so we settled
for a couple of beers at the ‘Dalmatin’ café.
A French boat came in to keep us company but that was all.
Next day we relaxed in the peaceful surroundings. We took the dinghy further up the inlet but not much to see so drifted back down – very pleasant though. Went ashore to shop and had another couple of beers at the café/bar.
Thursday July 3rd. Weighed anchor early at about 06.45 and headed up to Skradin. Found there were a lot of boats anchored with lines ashore on the north bank but others free-anchored off the marina so we settled in among them. Austrian boat ("Krokodox") thought we were too close but we thought we were OK so put the dinghy in the water and went ashore to get the first boat (at 08.00) up to the Krka Waterfalls. Lovely boat trip that took about 20 minutes. There were about a dozen other passengers at this time. We bought out tickets to the National Park (55Kn each) and followed the footpaths round. Very beautiful and quiet and lots of nature. The falls themselves were spread out and walkways had been laid around them so you could walk up and over the top and through the trees and vegetation. Lots of fish and frogs but the ‘only’ bird - a nightingale! Went back on the 10.30 boat and the boat arriving was packed! Retrieved camera for people who left it on a bench. Had a wander and coffee back in Skradin before heading back to the boat. Went ashore later and showered at the ACI marina – no problem and had a couple of beers. Moved later as we were too close to "Krokodox"!
4th. Woke up to a very black sky and then the storm hit.
Torrential rain followed by hail and strong gusty wind.
Discovered that the fore-peak hatch was leaking and the sealant had
melted in the heat so the glass was actually loose!
Lots of ice in the gullies and the visibility went down to less than 50m.
Fortunately it was short lived and our anchor held, in fact the only boat that
dragged was the inevitable Italian. Went
for a walk later in town.
Saturday July 5th. Decided to be
lazy and stay put. Finally identified the small duck-like birds as little
grebes, Mum, Dad and flotilla of three youngsters.
Ashore later to ‘Marco Polo’ restaurant for dinner.
Usual Dalmatian ham starter and fantastic mussels (Julie only!)
Later Hans ("Krokodox") and friend
("Minzy") came in and were painting a board for advertising the restaurant. We joined them for a chat.
Sunday July 6th. Moved back to
Rasline. Took dinghy up the small
inlet to look for birds. We saw 6
little grebes, many swallows, Red-backed shrike, Black-headed gulls, Herring
gulls, Goldfinches and a small Warbler.
Monday July 7th. Lazy morning then went round to Sibenik. Found space alongside but were told to move by the harbourmaster as the space was reserved for large boats. Another thunderstorm erupted and brought torrential rain for half an hour or so which brought all the rubbish from the sewers etc. into the harbour, including dead rats. Moved to fuel berth and topped up then went to harbour wall with laid moorings. Charged 125Kn for the berth with no electricity and one hose which all the boats had to share. Ron made friends with an Irish guy and he and his wife came for a drink later. The town was quite pleasant with narrow cobbled streets and an interesting cathedral.
Found very pleasant internet café on four floors with small rooms decorated in stylish designs. Later had very mediocre burgers. Had a chat with Sue and Fred ("Monabhar").
Tuesday July 8th. Went to find the
supermarket with S & F and then onto the market.
Left Sibenik at 11.00 and motored out of the channel Kanal Sv Ante and
through some islands to an anchorage on Otok Kakan called Uvala Potkucina. Lots of boats on buoys and at anchor but enough space though
we moved closer in later.
Wednesday July 9th. An earlyish start leaving at 06.50 and heading up to Dugi Otok. Passage up the east side of Kornati to the south end of Dugi Otok. Julie witnessed a mass gathering of Cormorants here. Passed through the south channel at ‘Katina’ and round into the deep bay. Finished up at the head of the bay behind two islands and a very sheltered anchorage. A few boats about but not too many on our side of the bay, though the noise from the cicadas was deafening. On the 10th we took a walk to the east side of the bay and went for a couple of (expensive) beers at the local (only) restaurant where people had had to reserve tables?
Friday July 11th.
Saturday July 12th. Left at 09.25
and headed up the east side of Molat. Managed to get about one hour of sailing
with the Genoa out. Arrived at Ilovik and took a buoy (58Kns). A nice place
between the islands of Ilovik and Sv. Petar but far too many boats. About 80
bouys all taken and some other boats either alongside the quay or free anchored.
Anyway, pleasant enough for us to decide to spend a few days here and do a
little bit of walking on both the islands.
Tuesday July 15th. Left Ilovik at
09.25 for the fairly short trip up to Mali Losinj arriving at 11.40. Tied up
stern to the town quays/pontoons so had electric and water, though at a cost of
206 Kns. Good shopping to be had here with a supermarket and fresh fruit/veg
market. Managed to get a half price
case of beer from the supermarket (by accident) so well worth it.
During our time here we get a message from Vision (Frank and Tari,
American) that they needed an English fix from their travels with Bingo
(Christian and Danielle, French) so arranged to meet the next day back in Ilovik.
Wednesday July 16th. Left Mali Losinj at 09.20 heading back to Ilovik. Quite a swell coming from the SW making things a little uncomfortable for a while. Arrived back in Ilovik at 11.45 and picked up a buoy yet again. "Vision" arrived at about 2.00 in the afternoon.
Played bridge on board "Vision" in the afternoon and then
went out for a meal in the evening with "Vision" providing the transport,
unfortunately quite a poor meal but nobody was that hungry.
Thursday July 17th. Left Ilovik at 10.20 with "Vision", heading for the island of Unije. Managed to do some sailing and motor sailing during the passage and take some photographs of each other. Arrived at Uvala Maraĉol at 14.30 and yet again picked up a buoy (60Kns). Again lots of boats here on the buoys (80 plus). On the 18th took a walk over the top to the village on the other side of the island. Had coffee and a bit of a wander then went back. On the 19th "Bingo" arrived having dropped off their passengers at Zadar.
Sunday July 20th. Now three in company, "Gladlee", "Vision" and
"Bingo" we all left
at 09.05 and headed off towards Pula. We had decided to spend the night in an
anchorage south of Pula, Uvala Soline which we did manage to do though space was
a little tight with hundreds of boats in there at anchor. Managed to find a
restaurant ashore where we all had dinner (including Mexican for most).
Monday July 21st. Departed at 08.30 for the relatively short passage up to Pula arriving at 10.15 just as our friends "Riduna" were leaving. Stopped mid harbour to have a quick chat before anchoring off the railway station. A sort of flying visit to the town to check out the architecture and find an internet café before finding a wonderful supermarket just out of town.
Having done all our shopping we decided not to overnight in
Pula as the harbour gets a little smelly especially at night with no wind. At
15.50 we therefore upped anchor and headed south for Uvala Pantala (nicknamed
Construction Bay due to the large hotel being built). Despite the construction
this was a much better bay than Soline and we all spent a very comfortable night
here. Dinner was onboard "Bingo", (including mussels cooked on "Gladlee") in order
to celebrate Julies birthday the next day and a really pleasant evening had by
Tuesday July 22nd. Moved a short
distance round the point and into the south part of the entrance to Pomer. Found
a nice bay but lots of people around (found out it was a public holiday), Uvala
Portuc. Later went over to "Vision" for dinner once it had quietened
down and we had another lovely evening together ("Bingo" as well of course).
Wednesday July 23rd.
Thursday July 24th. The weather and
the forecast looked iffy so after some consultation with the cats we decided to
stay put and the others came up and anchored nearby.
The weather deteriorated during the day so we played bridge on "Vision" and
then later went with the two ribs round to Medulin town for dinner. Though quite busy with tourists, we found a very good
restaurant and sat up on the terrace. We
had to hide a bit under the umbrellas as it started to rain and there were
thunderstorms around but we didn’t get too wet. Pleased we’d stayed put as we were in a safe anchorage.
Friday July 25th. Tari came over
and took us ashore for some shopping. Then
we all upped anchor about 10.30 and headed down the channel towards Cres.
Put some genoa out initially but the wind soon died and we motored the
rest of the way. On entering Cres
harbour we noticed a couple of yachts anchored and found one was "Riduna", they
couldn’t escape us! Anchored
nearby them. Had dinner on "Bingo".
Saturday July 26th. Went shopping
and wandering around the town in the morning.
Said hello to Brian and Susie and went onboard for a drink at lunchtime,
together with the others. Went over
to the fuel berth and filled up with diesel and water and then headed down to
Martinscica about 3 hours away. Anchored
outside the harbour off the beach and "Vision" and "Bingo" did the same and they all
came over to us for a stir-fry dinner. Quiet
anchorage except when the ferry came in and rolled us all over the place.
Sunday July 27th. After wandering
round the village we left to go 3 miles out to a very small island called Otok
Zeca where we anchored for a lazy day. Beautiful
clear water and lovely sunny day. Did
some snorkelling but not much to see. Upped
anchor just after 17.00 and re-anchored in a small bay south of Ustrine, still
on Cres. Had a quiet evening.
Monday July 28th. Weather forecast looking dodgy again so decided to go back to Unije and the buoys at Uvala Maraĉol. Very busy but we managed to find a vacant buoy further in and "Vision" and "Bingo", having stopped off on Otok Zeca, this time on the west side arrived later and also managed to find a couple of bouys.
Tuesday July 29th. Stayed put for
the day. Went for a walk with F
& T over the hill to the village for lunch and then played bridge later in
Wednesday July 30th. "Vision" and
went off early to get back to Pula for a concert on the 31st.
We went over the hill again to shop and then left for Silba at about
11.20. Still quite breezy so we
tried sailing with just the genoa but it became flukey so we gave up. Anchored outside the harbour quite comfortably with lots of
boats around but soon the wind started turning and became more northerly and
sent the swell down. In the night
we had strong easterly winds which the anchorage was open to, so quite an
Thursday July 31st.