Gladlee of Guernsey

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July 2003

Tuesday 1st July.  Moved off after the net at about 09.00.  A nice morning with a little breeze coming from the south so we put the genoa out and wended our way between some islands and reefs and through the channel south of Zlaren to the entrance to the Sibenik channel called Kanal Sveta Ante.  We  furled in the genoa and motored through to the inner lake opposite Sibenik and continued up towards the bridge and through the next narrow channel to the brackish Prukljansko jezero.  Instead of going straight up to Skradin we veered left up to Rasline and dropped anchor in the basin just after the  small harbour in about 5.8m.  A beautiful quiet spot, a little away from the village with trees along the opposite bank and birds singing away.  We could see the constant stream of traffic going to and fro from Skradin-Sibenik. We ventured ashore later for an explore but not too much to see so we settled for a couple of beers at the ‘Dalmatin’ café.  A French boat came in to keep us company but that was all. 

Next day we relaxed in the peaceful surroundings.  We took the dinghy further up the inlet but not much to see so drifted back down – very pleasant though.  Went ashore to shop and had another couple of beers at the café/bar.  

Route in to Sibenik and Skradin to Krka

The river up to the waterfalls

Thursday July 3rd.  Weighed anchor early at about 06.45 and headed up to Skradin.  Found there were a lot of boats anchored with lines ashore on the north bank but others free-anchored off the marina so we settled in among them.  Austrian boat ("Krokodox") thought we were too close but we thought we were OK so put the dinghy in the water and went ashore to get the first boat (at 08.00) up to the Krka Waterfalls.  Lovely boat trip that took about 20 minutes.  There were about a dozen other passengers at this time.  We bought out tickets to the National Park (55Kn each) and followed the footpaths round.  Very beautiful and quiet and lots of nature.  The falls themselves were spread out and walkways had been laid around them so you could walk up and over the top and through the trees and vegetation.  Lots of fish and frogs but the ‘only’ bird -  a nightingale!  Went back on the 10.30 boat and the boat arriving was packed!  Retrieved camera for people who left it on a bench.  Had a wander and coffee back in Skradin before heading back to the boat.  Went ashore later and showered at the ACI marina – no problem and had a couple of beers.  Moved later as we were too close to "Krokodox"!  

Krka Waterfalls and National Park

Lower falls

Friday  July 4th.  Woke up to a very black sky and then the storm hit.  Torrential rain followed by hail and strong gusty wind.  Discovered that the fore-peak hatch was leaking and the sealant had melted in the heat so the glass was actually loose!  Lots of ice in the gullies and the visibility went down to less than 50m. Fortunately it was short lived and our anchor held, in fact the only boat that dragged was the inevitable Italian.  Went for a walk later in town.

Saturday July 5th.  Decided to be lazy and stay put.  Finally identified the small duck-like birds as little grebes, Mum, Dad and flotilla of three youngsters.  Ashore later to ‘Marco Polo’ restaurant for dinner.  Usual Dalmatian ham starter and fantastic mussels (Julie only!)  Later Hans ("Krokodox") and friend   ("Minzy") came in and were painting a board for advertising the restaurant.  We joined them for a chat.

Sunday July 6th.  Moved back to Rasline.  Took dinghy up the small inlet to look for birds.  We saw 6 little grebes, many swallows, Red-backed shrike, Black-headed gulls, Herring gulls, Goldfinches and a small Warbler. 

Monday July 7th.  Lazy morning then went round to Sibenik.  Found space alongside but were told to move by the harbourmaster as the space was reserved for large boats.  Another thunderstorm erupted and brought torrential rain for half an hour or so which brought all the rubbish from the sewers etc. into the harbour, including dead rats.  Moved to fuel berth and topped up then went to harbour wall with laid moorings.  Charged 125Kn for the berth with no electricity and one hose which all the boats had to share.  Ron made friends with an Irish guy and he and his wife came for a drink later.  The town was quite pleasant with narrow cobbled streets and an interesting cathedral. 

Found very pleasant internet café on four floors with small rooms decorated in stylish designs.  Later had very mediocre burgers.  Had a chat with Sue and Fred ("Monabhar").  

Giant bell at Sibenik

the cathedral

and narrow streets

Tuesday July 8th.  Went to find the supermarket with S & F and then onto the market.  Left Sibenik at 11.00 and motored out of the channel Kanal Sv Ante and through some islands to an anchorage on Otok Kakan called Uvala Potkucina.  Lots of boats on buoys and at anchor but enough space though we moved closer in later.

Wednesday July 9th.  An earlyish start leaving at 06.50 and heading up to Dugi Otok. Passage up the east side of Kornati to the south end of Dugi Otok.  Julie witnessed a mass gathering of Cormorants here. Passed through the south channel at ‘Katina’ and round into the deep bay. Finished up at the head of the bay behind two islands and a very sheltered anchorage. A few boats about but not too many on our side of the bay, though the noise from the cicadas was deafening. On the 10th we took a walk to the east side of the bay and went for a couple of  (expensive) beers at the local (only) restaurant where people had had to reserve tables? 

Cormorants at sea

Friday July 11th.   Left at 07.00 to continue our way northwards. Had a little bit of cloud around and actually had a few spots of rain. Spotted what looked like a nice anchorage on the south side of Molat and on checking it out found it to be perfect (at least with no wind about). Had a pleasant night here and a good snorkel session.

Saturday July 12th.  Left at 09.25 and headed up the east side of Molat. Managed to get about one hour of sailing with the Genoa out. Arrived at Ilovik and took a buoy (58Kns). A nice place between the islands of Ilovik and Sv. Petar but far too many boats. About 80 bouys all taken and some other boats either alongside the quay or free anchored. Anyway, pleasant enough for us to decide to spend a few days here and do a little bit of walking on both the islands. 

Tuesday July 15th.  Left Ilovik at 09.25 for the fairly short trip up to Mali Losinj arriving at 11.40. Tied up stern to the town quays/pontoons so had electric and water, though at a cost of 206 Kns. Good shopping to be had here with a supermarket and fresh fruit/veg market.  Managed to get a half price case of beer from the supermarket (by accident) so well worth it.  During our time here we get a message from Vision (Frank and Tari, American) that they needed an English fix from their travels with Bingo (Christian and Danielle, French) so arranged to meet the next day back in Ilovik.

Wednesday July 16th.  Left Mali Losinj at 09.20 heading back to Ilovik. Quite a swell coming from the SW making things a little uncomfortable for a while. Arrived back in Ilovik at 11.45 and picked up a buoy yet again.  "Vision" arrived at about 2.00 in the afternoon.

The anchorage at Ilovik

Played bridge on board "Vision" in the afternoon and then went out for a meal in the evening with "Vision" providing the transport, unfortunately quite a poor meal but nobody was that hungry.

Thursday July 17th.  Left Ilovik at 10.20 with "Vision", heading for the island of Unije. Managed to do some sailing and motor sailing during the passage and take some photographs of each other.  Arrived at Uvala Maraĉol at 14.30 and yet again picked up a buoy (60Kns). Again lots of boats here on the buoys (80 plus).  On the 18th took a walk over the top to the village on the other side of the island. Had coffee and a bit of a wander then went back. On the 19th "Bingo" arrived having dropped off their passengers at Zadar.  

Mooring buoy field at Uvala Maracol

 with Vision and Bingo

Sunday July 20th.  Now three in company, "Gladlee", "Vision" and "Bingo" we all left at 09.05 and headed off towards Pula. We had decided to spend the night in an anchorage south of Pula, Uvala Soline which we did manage to do though space was a little tight with hundreds of boats in there at anchor. Managed to find a restaurant ashore where we all had dinner (including Mexican for most).

Monday July 21st.  Departed at 08.30 for the relatively short passage up to Pula arriving at 10.15 just as our friends "Riduna" were leaving.  Stopped mid harbour to have a quick chat before anchoring off the railway station.  A sort of flying visit to the town to check out the architecture and find an internet café before finding a wonderful supermarket just out of town.  

View of Pula

and the amphitheatre

Having done all our shopping we decided not to overnight in Pula as the harbour gets a little smelly especially at night with no wind. At 15.50 we therefore upped anchor and headed south for Uvala Pantala (nicknamed Construction Bay due to the large hotel being built). Despite the construction this was a much better bay than Soline and we all spent a very comfortable night here. Dinner was onboard "Bingo", (including mussels cooked on "Gladlee") in order to celebrate Julies birthday the next day and a really pleasant evening had by all.

Tuesday July 22nd.  Moved a short distance round the point and into the south part of the entrance to Pomer. Found a nice bay but lots of people around (found out it was a public holiday), Uvala Portuc.  Later went over to "Vision" for dinner once it had quietened down and we had another lovely evening together ("Bingo" as well of course).

Wednesday July 23rd.   Having decided that we must go to Pomer, "Gladlee" left the two cats and went up the estuary past Medulin and found an anchorage in the ‘lake’ before Pomer, by the mussel beds.  Lots of space though the water was a bit green.  Went ashore later to dump rubbish, beautiful gardens along the road with lots of different types of fruit trees and plants, and we even spotted a pair of Golden Orioles.  Found a corner shop and bought some food and had a beer in the little café next door.

Thursday July 24th.  The weather and the forecast looked iffy so after some consultation with the cats we decided to stay put and the others came up and anchored nearby.  The weather deteriorated during the day so we played bridge on "Vision" and then later went with the two ribs round to Medulin town for dinner.  Though quite busy with tourists, we found a very good restaurant and sat up on the terrace.  We had to hide a bit under the umbrellas as it started to rain and there were thunderstorms around but we didn’t get too wet.  Pleased we’d stayed put as we were in a safe anchorage.

Friday July 25th.  Tari came over and took us ashore for some shopping.  Then we all upped anchor about 10.30 and headed down the channel towards Cres.  Put some genoa out initially but the wind soon died and we motored the rest of the way.  On entering Cres harbour we noticed a couple of yachts anchored and found one was "Riduna", they couldn’t escape us!  Anchored nearby them.  Had dinner on "Bingo".

Saturday July 26th.  Went shopping and wandering around the town in the morning.  Said hello to Brian and Susie and went onboard for a drink at lunchtime, together with the others.  Went over to the fuel berth and filled up with diesel and water and then headed down to Martinscica about 3 hours away.  Anchored outside the harbour off the beach and "Vision" and "Bingo" did the same and they all came over to us for a stir-fry dinner.  Quiet anchorage except when the ferry came in and rolled us all over the place.

Sunday July 27th.  After wandering round the village we left to go 3 miles out to a very small island called Otok Zeca where we anchored for a lazy day.  Beautiful clear water and lovely sunny day.  Did some snorkelling but not much to see.  Upped anchor just after 17.00 and re-anchored in a small bay south of Ustrine, still on Cres.  Had a quiet evening.

Monday July 28th.  Weather forecast looking dodgy again so decided to go back to Unije and the buoys at Uvala Maraĉol. Very busy but we managed to find a vacant buoy further in and "Vision" and "Bingo", having stopped off on Otok Zeca, this time on the west side arrived later and also managed to find a couple of bouys.

Vision and Bingo

Tuesday July 29th.  Stayed put for the day.  Went for a walk with F & T over the hill to the village for lunch and then played bridge later in the afternoon.

Wednesday July 30th. "Vision" and "Bingo" went off early to get back to Pula for a concert on the 31st.  We went over the hill again to shop and then left for Silba at about 11.20.  Still quite breezy so we tried sailing with just the genoa but it became flukey so we gave up.  Anchored outside the harbour quite comfortably with lots of boats around but soon the wind started turning and became more northerly and sent the swell down.  In the night we had strong easterly winds which the anchorage was open to, so quite an uncomfortable night.

Thursday July 31st.   Headed off at 09.00 towards Molat and went through the channel between Molat and Ist and looked for an anchorage near Molat town.  Nothing quite suited so continued down to Dugi Otok and took a buoy in Uvala Lucina (recommended by "Vision") – quite pleasant and lots of room.  Ashore later to do a small shop by the ferry terminal and had a beer in a small taverna type place further down.


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