Friday August 1st. Left buoy just
before 09.00 and motor-sailed with the genoa only down the east coast of Dugi
Otok. The wind started gusting so
we hauled in the genoa and motored through the south channel at Katina and
threaded our way through the islands of the Kornati National Park.
Beautiful if barren scenery, quite stark.
Arrived at Uvala Lavsa, an almost enclosed bay and chose a buoy near the
entrance. Pleasant enough but not
stunning. The Park man came around
and charged us 100Kn for the Park and 100Kn for the buoy – a little pricey!
Went ashore later for a beer only and ate on board.
Saturday August 2nd.
Leisurely start and then motored round to the ACI marina called
Peskera just a couple of miles away. Tied
to buoy and dinghied ashore to do some shopping. Small shop but we got a few
essentials and had a coffee. Continued back another 3 miles to another large bay
and anchored in 7m. Lovely
surroundings but again quite stark. Park men came for money but we said our ticket was valid for
two days and they accepted this. Went
for snorkel later and found quite a lot of different fish in the protected area
of the park though they were all small. Nice
to be in pristine waters. Just
before dark a squall materialised to the SE but managed to stretch towards us
with strong gusty east winds. It
started raining and Julie went out to help the rain wash the deck and suddenly
realised we were the other side of the bay, so a quick shout to Ron who
immediately started the engine and got the anchor up.
No harm done and we re-anchored back in a similar spot.
Other boats on the small quay also had problems and had to pull
themselves off. The storm didn’t
last long and the deck was duly washed.
Beautiful barren landscape
Sunday August 3rd.
Late relaxing start, and then went back round to the ACI marina where
Ron rowed ashore to buy some cigarettes – phew!!
Continued on down between the islands and then headed for Kakan with the
help of some genoa. Anchored in the lee of the island though it was still quite
breezy. David Witton came over from
"Lucinda", who Julie hadn’t seen for 10 years and invited us over for a
drink later. Went over at about 6
o’clock and had a pleasant hour or so with David and Anne reminiscing and
chatting. They had been back to
England and circumnavigated the UK before returning to the Med through the
Monday August 4th.
Left reasonably early to get into Primosten by lunchtime before the
crowds. Pleasantly surprised to
find lots of space and buoys had been put in so took one and nobody even came to
charge us. All were taken by late
afternoon and the quay was full so latecomers had to anchor off in quite
considerable depths. One boat
anchored too close to us and put out lots of anchor chain but fortunately a buoy
came free very late on and they took that so no worries for us.
Decided to go ashore for a wander up to the church on the promontory and
to have some lunch and after scouting around we chose what turned out to be a
very nice restaurant and not pricey. Julie
had scampi risotto and Ron chicken. Did
some shopping in a good large supermarket before returning to the boat and
relaxing for the afternoon. Later
went back ashore to try and find an ATM machine or bank without success so
stopped for a couple of cheap beers in a local café and finished off the money
in the supermarket.
The small town of
Tuesday August 5th.
Early start before 7.00 and motored round to Trogir which took less
than 4 hours. Anchored on the north
side of the channel close to "Cinnabar". A
bit breezy in the early afternoon so delayed our trip ashore until later.
Lots of boat movement and wash from power boats even though we were close
to the town. Popped over to
"Cinnabar" (Ed and Julie) and had a beer and a chat for an hour or so and then
went up the small canal between Trogir island and the mainland – rather fun
and different. Tied the dinghy up
and went to find some money then went to check out the ACI marina – not very
impressive and a very small chandlery. Did
a bit of shopping and stopped for our usual couple of beers before returning to
The old city of Trogir
Canal through the city
Trogir looking south
View from the marina
Wednesday August 6th.
Motor-sailed round to Split and dropped the anchor at 10 o’clock.
Dinghied ashore to check fridges out in the chandlery but not quite the
right one available and of course quite pricey but it did give us some
information to work on. Upped
anchor and headed for the gap between Brac and Solta putting both sails up just
before. Managed to just keep a good course to get through though had
to reef with stronger winds in the channel.
Sailed all the rest of the way to an anchorage just outside the harbour
at Stari Grad, Otok Hvar. Strange
anchorage as the wind was against the current so we sat stern to wind with the
trees as protection, so it turned out quite comfortable although we had to drop
the anchor in over 10m.
Thursday August 7th.
After watching half a dozen boats leave the harbour we went in and
found a space on the quay near to our previous spot.
Backed in no problem with no
help. Tried to get our gas
containers filled without success. Filled up with water and cleaned the boat and did some
washing and changed the oil etc. etc.
Busy day so beers deserved before eating on board when it was cooler.
Paid 100Kn as expected.
Friday August 8th.
Left early for long passage to Otok Kortula and anchored
mid-afternoon at Kneza.
Quite breezy in afternoon and had small run-in with French on charter
boat who anchored far too close to us.
Saturday August 9th.
Wind changed to the east during the night and sent in quite a slop so
we waited for that to stop before heading off.
Motored past Korcula town and then put some genoa out to Otok Milljet and
after checking out Uvala with little
space we double-backed against strong wind to Uvala Prozura and dropped anchor.
Sunday August 10th.
Earlyish start to get to Ston, very pleasant in the cool of the
morning. Wound our way up the
fairly shallow channel and tied up alongside the wall by 10.30.
Very pleasant spot, walked along the road to see if there were any birds
and eventually saw a little Egret and a Heron.
Norwegian boat rafted alongside us, very chatty and gave us their last
Norwegian beer. Later a South
African boat rafted outside them. Went
into the village to shop but only the bakery was open due to it being Sunday.
Had a beer and then lunch on board.
Quite a mess when the Norwegians left as the SA boat was going to go in
front of us but the problem was that the boat that was there was still there.
So lots of pushing off and ropes everywhere before finally settling, no
damage done but no thanks to the SA’icans.
Went ashore and walked up the walls of the old fort, quite a lot of steps
but nice view from the top. For
dinner decided on a restaurant up a side street that was advertising fishy
things. Nice restaurant though Ron
had a bit of trouble getting service and his steak was pretty rare and had to be
sent back for more cooking. Julie
had half dozen oysters to start and then pork medallions.
The old fortifications at
Channel up to Ston
The village of Ston
From the fortifications
Monday August 11th.
Left early and saw lots of herons and egrets along the sides of the
channel. Arrived at the ACI marina,
Dubrovnik but had to queue for fuel in strengthening winds but managed
with no problems. Continued up the
river past the marina and after backing rapidly off the shallows dropped anchor
in the middle of the river and tied a line to the island, Ron having bravely
jumped in with the line to find that the water was almost fresh and quite cold! Very pleasant spot with lots of birds and very peaceful.
Dinghyied across to the marina and finding the office
closed went and found Hank and Kelly on "Horizon" and caught up with news
over a couple of beers. Picked up
the couple of letters Mum had sent. Did
a final shop in the supermarket to spend the rest of our Kuna’s then spent the
rest of the afternoon doing correspondence and
took the letters over to Kelly to post in the UK.
Tuesday August 12th.
Leisurely start then went over to the marina for a packet of
cigarettes and a shower. Motored round to Gruz harbour to check out.
Tied-up conveniently alongside the wall and went and found the officials.
Very easy though the harbour master was a bit strange in that having
established that Julie was the owner directed all his questions to Ron.
We were away again by 11 o’clock and anchored in Molunat Bay just
before 4 o’clock, in about 8.0m which turned out to be on top of a rubbish
dump! Pleasant enough place once
the water-skiiers had gone home.
The road bridge at Dubrovnik
Wednesday August 13-14th.
Left the anchorage at 06.15 just as it was beginning to get light.
A slight breeze from the south to start with which turned WNW later, we
did put the main up but not enough wind to sail.
Uneventful passage with only a few ships or ferries about during the
night. We kept about 10 miles off the Albanian coast to avoid any
trouble and arrived at Errikousa just
before 3 o’clock the following afternoon.
Dropped anchor in the middle of the large bay on the south.
Friday August 15th.
Quiet night except for the occasional wash from passing ferries.
Found the small anchor for the dinghy and went across to the rocks and
snorkelled for half an hour. Very
pleasant but not too much to see. Left
at 12 o’clock and put the sails up and actually sailed for almost 4 hours
across to Corfu. Anchored way outside the bay in about 8m at St. Stefanou,
recommended to us by "Horizon", on the NE coast of Corfu.
A little bit breezy late afternoon but died off enough so that we could
go ashore and have dinner. The
small village had obviously grown more touristy since Hank and Kelly had been
there but was pleasant enough. Some
wash again during the night from passing ferries.
Saturday August 16th.
Went ashore to do a small shop and then upped anchor and headed on
down to Gouvia. Checked if we could
anchor outside the marina but the joker boat man said no, so we went back out
the channel and anchored by the hotel. A
few minutes later a guy from the water-sports centre asked us to move because of
the para-gliding so we re-anchored about 500m away.
It was pretty calm even though the wind came from the SE.
A popular anchorage for the large gin palaces.
Listened to the first day of the premiership football season on the
Sunday August 17th.
Moved round to the marina as planned and no problem getting into a
berth. It turned out a very nice
berth because it was inside the easternmost mole and the breeze came straight in
to cool us down. Did the usual
washing of the boat and cleaning. Went
out in the afternoon to try and find a bar showing the early game and came
across the ‘Beer Bucket’ which advertised the Leeds v Newcastle game so we
settled in there for the afternoon. Quite
a bonus to find this game as it was on one of the pay channels for Sky TV.
Stayed to watch the second game and Hank and Kelly walked in by
coincidence, so we did more chatting than watching the football.
Sat with some other people for a while and then H & K went off to eat
and we followed but didn’t find them so ate at George’s just down the road.
Strange place run by a couple of retired Brits but the food when it
eventually arrived was OK. Fairly late night.
Monday August 18th.
Went out to try and find a bank machine and internet but nothing too
local so did a long hot walk in to Gouvia village.
Found a machine and then walked back to the ‘Beer Bucket’ for brunch
and internet (Superonline was down so no success there).
Went across to AB supermarket and did a fairly large shop before
returning to the boat, showering and leaving just before 2 o’clock.
After motoring for about 4 hours we dropped anchor in a very pleasant
spot at Ormos Valtou, Igoumenitsa Creek with only one other boat in the bay.
As this was near to the river entrance there were quite a few birds about
and a whole herd of glossy ibis went over at dusk.
Also spotted was a pelican and lots of herons/egrets and the odd
kingfisher. All around the fish
were jumping, some well out of the water though we failed to catch anything.
Tuesday August 19th.
Wednesday August 20th.
Early start as we had a long way to go.
Not much wind until we were approaching Levkas.
Arrived too early for the bridge as it was only opening every 3 hours
because of the earthquake. Anchored
in the basin before the bridge in about 5m with the wind now gusting up to 25
knots. German boat tried to anchor near and over us but we asked
them to move. In the end there were
at least a dozen boats anchored in the small area.
After about an hour and a quarter Ron suddenly shouted to Julie that we
were dragging so a quick engine on and anchor up without hitting anybody or
going aground. Strange after we had
sat there comfortably for so long and then dragged. Went through the bridge at 6 o’clock and backed in to the
town quay at Levkas.
Thursday August 21st.
Removed the three hatches that were leaking and dropped them in to
CYS. Told they would be ready the
next morning. Checked out whether
they could order a new fridge for us but it turned out there was not the right
one in stock in Athens and they probably wouldn’t order one for us anyway!
Found fresh water pump and bought it for €163 (should have been
€181). Tried to do Internet but
too busy with kids playing games.
Friday August 22nd.
Went back to the office but Joe in mood and hatches not ready.
Did Internet and some shopping, Filled up with fuel and water then back
to the office. Got charged €5 for
water and €3.5 for mooring. Joe
still difficult and said they were still not ready. Decided to go to Ligia for
the night rather than the noisy dirty quay.
Saturday August 23rd.
Lazy morning and then back up to back into the quay at Levkas.
Went back to the office and were told the hatches would be delivered to
the boat at 1 o’clock. Waited
until after then and back up to the office.
The hatches were still not ready and Joe recommended that they stay in
the clamps for another day or so. Wanted
to watch the football but the Internet place refused to put it on so the last
try was the Ionian Star Hotel and behind the bar they had it on (Man Utd v
Wolves). After the game we left and
motored down to Vlikho Bay and arrived just after 6.00.
Sunday August 24th – Sunday 31st.
Went ashore and found the ‘Yacht Club’ run by the Irish couple
Rory and Vicky. Watched football in
the afternoon and evening. Took the
bus up to Levkas Town on the Monday to pick up the hatches and ended up in
another row with Joe but at least the hatches were there (€175).
During the week we did many jobs on the boat including refitting the
hatches, full engine service, fitting fresh water pump, replacing shower pump
impellor, taking off the rotorstay and servicing, cleaning the brass etc. and
whenever there was football, we watched it!
Stayed for the weekend to watch the games and the rugby international.
"North Star" (Jim and Pat) turned up and joined us in the bar. Took the bus up to Levkas again on the Saturday morning
to visit the big supermarkets on the edge of town.